Submariner 5513 Dials
In broad terms, there are three generations of the 5513:
Gilt dials, 1962–1967ish
Matte dials, 1967–1984ish
Glossy dials, 1984–1989
Within these are nearly limitless variants based on dial printing, lume plots, and crown guard shape, not to mention rare birds like MilSubs and Explorer dials that sit at the top of Sub collecting, if not all of vintage 1:1 replica Rolex UK. This isn’t a full deep-dive into every single variation of the 5513 – that’s been done. Besides our Reference Points, 5513mattedial.com is a great resource for learning about the 10 (!) matte dial variants.
Instead of going in-depth on each of the dial types, I found one collector to explain why one specific dial type – gilt, matte, or glossy – is their favorite.
Gilt Dials
Like many brands, perfect replica Rolex produced gilt dials for its sports watches in the early ’60s, including Subs. These dials were produced by a time-intensive process that exposed the underlying metal of the dial blank. Since the technique exposes the blank brass underneath the dial’s face, this often results in golden text and markers. A lacquer is also added, giving the black dial a “glossy,” shiny finish.
This gilt process was used by Swiss movement fake Rolex to produce 5513 (and 5512) dials until the late ’60s. Today, collectors still love gilt dials because they’re deep and rich, with metallic lettering that no paint can match – and gilt Subs carry the price premiums to prove it. Some old guys will even tell you these gilt dials are the real-deal vintage stuff, and everything after that is far too modern for their sensibilities.
“I particularly like gilt aaa quality super clone Rolex Submariners UK because they’re bold tool watches that exhibit beautiful fragility as well,” collector (and gilt 5513 owner) Jeff Binstock said. “Early ’60s Swiss copy Rolex Submariners have bold, beautiful, glossy dials with subtle gilt writing in relief. But they’re also fragile and many experienced cracking and peeling from heat and moisture exposure.” Because of this, finding a gilt Sub in collectible condition is a real treat.
These gilt dials truly feel like old, vintage replica watches for sale from another era. It’s hard to find anything made since that compares with that deep, glossy black.